Axolotl

Axolotl

(Ambystoma mexicanum)

Life span Axolotls can live up to 15 years

Max size Adult axolotl can vary a lot in size but usually get to 12"

Temperature Ideal temperature is 15-18C but can tolerate temperatures as high as 21-23C, temperatures above 23C can result in heat stress, loss of appetite and death.

Diet Axolotls are carnivores, living on a diet of lob worms, blood worms, wax worms, crustaceans, insect larvae and other insects.

Housing Axolotls should be kept in a tank similar to what you would keep fish. This tank will require a filter that doesn't produce a strong current as axolotls do not like fast moving water. The tank filter needs to be cycled first as axolotls are very sensitive to ammonia levels. The best place to house an axolotl is in a shady area out of the sun. As axolotls usually stay at the bottom of the tank the length and width of the tank is more important than the height. A 2ft wide tank is what is recommended as the bare minimum for a single axolotl and may have to be upgraded in the future.

The water in the tank needs to be treated with a de-chlorinator prior to putting in the tank. This will remove all the metals and chlorine form your tank water as these are harmful to axolotls. Many de-chlorinators marketed for fish tanks contain aloe vera. Do not use these as the added aloe vera can harm your axolotl. it is recommended that you use API tap water conditioner or seachem prime. 

They can be shy creatures so decoration is must. This can be hides, plants, plant pots or other aquarium decoration. Just make sure they are safe for use in aquariums, are clean and don't have any sharp edges that the axolotl can hurt itself on. 

Water parameters Testing the water is vital in keeping your axolotl healthy and this should be done with a reliable testing kit such as API master freshwater test kit. Your pH should sit between 6.5 and 8.0 but 7.4-7.6 is ideal. Ammonia higher than 1.0 ppm will kill your axolotl but ideally should never be above 0.25ppm. It is the same with nitrite and for nitrate 40-80ppm is deadly. Keep ammonia low by cycling your tank, removing poop and uneaten food and not over feeding. To reduce your nitrates complete regular water changes.

Maintenance Daily cleaning by sucking up old food and poop should be done to keep your water quality good. This can be done using a siphon. You should change half the water in the tank every week and replace it with clean de-chlorinated water. Clean the glass sides and decorations as needed.

Lighting Axolotls are also sensitive to lighting so bright lighting should be kept to a minimum. All lights should be turned off at night.

Health Most health problems occur because of problems with water quality, so if you notice something is wrong first test your water. Common problems are:

• Being sick - usually means they are full or the food is too big but it can be an indicator that something is wrong. It can also be because the food doesn't taste nice so try rinsing worms off or feed something else.
• Peeling body - this is a problem with the axolotl's slime coat. This is usually because of water quality issues so check your parameters.
• Tail or gills curling up - This is a sign of extreme stress. This can because of illness, water quality, strong lighting/water flow, temperature or really anything that could make them unhappy.
• Pink/red patches on skin - this is a sign of ammonia burns. Remove the axolotl out into clean water immediately as this can kill. Test your water.
• Floating - a floating tail means they need to poo and is normal. So is if they swim to the surface and return back to the bottom. Floating at the top for prolonged periods of time is not normal. This means they have an air bubble trapped in them. Tubbing the axolotl in shallow water will help them feel more comfortable until they pass the bubble. Cooling the temperature can also help.
• Fungus - this will appear as a white fluff on the axolotl. To treat this you will want to give them a tea bath. Soak 1-2 unflavoured tea bags (not decaf) in hot water and leave to cool. Add this to a tub of de-chlorinated water that is deep enough to just cover the axolotl's back. Leave them in this for 15 minutes once a day for 5-7 days. 
  

• Tubbing axolotls - is a handy way of removing your axolotl from your tank if there ever is a problem. People also do it while their tank is cycling. To do this you will need two suitably sized clean (preferably never used before) plastic tubs. Fill one up with fresh de-chlorinated water deep enough to cover your axolotl and add some hides so they feel safe. As your tub doesn't have a filter you will have to do a complete 100% water change daily. Therefore, the next day fill your other tub up again with de-chlorinated water and transfer across your axolotl and hides. Discard the old water and keep the tub clean for the next day. A full water change must be completed every day. As long as your axolotl feels safe and is eating it is fine to keep them in the tub for as long as is needed. 

Sexing Males have a bulge behind the back legs, they usually develop the bulge when the male is around six months to a year. Females do not have this bulge

Breeding The male axolotl displays interest in the female axolotl by nudging her hindquarters with his nose. If she is receptive, the male axolotl will then attempt to court her by placing himself in front of her and then leading her, nose to tail, around the aquarium. As he walks forward, he deposits a packet of sperm, he will then lead the female axolotl forward until her cloaca is directly above it. She then takes the sperm up into her cloaca. The male axolotl resumes leading the female forward, and she will pick up several packets of sperm over the course of an hour or so.

Egg-laying takes place between 12 and 72 hours later. Up to 1,500 axolotl eggs may be deposited individually on the aquarium decorations. Plants will be used if available. Remove the eggs or the adults as soon as egg-laying has finished, as axolotls can eat their own eggs. Eggs hatch sooner and larvae grow at a higher rate when kept at the upper end of the safe temperature range, at 22C, the eggs will hatch in about 15 days.

Russell McRae